Pada Yatra Footsteps in search of God’s blessings!

“Fifteen years ago, when I first came here, I witnessed the intense hunger experienced by the people. Individuals from different religions and backgrounds take part in the Pada Yatra and you can see all of them affected by hunger. It was during that time that I realised the significance of providing nourishment to those who are starving during their journey,”-   Ranjith Gamage who organises almsgivings for pilgrims 

When undertaking this pilgrimage there is no one to assume responsibility for the safety of participants* Regardless of the dangers to their lives these pilgrims venture into lagoons and swamps; determined to reach their ultimate destination -Kataragama

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Despite hunger and weakness, these individuals endure the hardships involved with the journey to complete the Pada Yatra

 By Prageeth Sampath Karunathilaka

Devotees from all over Sri Lanka gather in Kataragama to pay their respects to God Kataragama before the commencement of the Perahara. Among these visitors, the most significant are those who take part in the Pada Yatra; on which devotees from the north, east, and various parts of the country travel for weeks and even months to get to the final destination. Among these pilgrims, there are some who join not to fulfil personal needs or other obligations. They form an exclusive group of individuals.

One of the final destinations on this pilgrimage is the Kale Ganapati Devalaya, located on the Kataragama Situlpawwa Road. Weary devotees, having travelled hundreds of kilometres for days, arrive at the Kale Ganapati Devalaya. Here, they clean themselves, rest and worship God Kataragama the following day. Many participants of the Pada Yatra, lasting for a week, a fortnight, or even a month, often do not get an adequate supply of food and drink. Occasionally, the provisions brought along become spoiled. Furthermore, fatigue may prevent cooking; leaving these pilgrims without food during the final days of the journey. Despite hunger and weakness, these individuals endure the hardships involved with the journey to complete the Pada Yatra.

Nevertheless, those traversing the Katagamuwa Road have the opportunity to satisfy their hunger near the Kale Ganapati Devalaya. There are dansal (alms giving) events providing three meals for those undertaking the Pada Yatra; via this route. During this journey, this scribe encountered a group of businessmen from the Homagama area who have been organising almsgivings thrice a day for 12 years. This has ensured nourishment for the devotees embarking on the Pada Yatra. Under the leadership of Ranjith Gamage, these almsgivings have served to satiate the hunger of thousands of individuals.

When undertaking this pilgrimage, there is no one to assume responsibility for the safety of the participants. They must take the responsibility of their own lives. Troubles arising from encounters with wild animals persist throughout their journey through the forest. Elephants, tigers, bears, snakes and crocodiles pose dangers, making it unthinkable to halt and spend the night at any unplanned location.

Crossing the crocodile-infested lagoons while travelling on foot from Okanda Temple via Kumana and Yala poses a significant risk to the pilgrims. However, such danger does not prevent them from proceeding with their journey. Regardless of the dangers to their lives, these individuals venture into the lagoons and swamps; determined to reach their ultimate destination -Kataragama. The presence of venomous snakes adds to the overall dangers. Tragically, a woman lost her life after being attacked by a wild elephant along the way, and such stories underscore the horrors faced during this journey by foot. A group of pilgrims instead of spending the night at a safe place, embarked on the same day to travel to Menik Ganga (River), and it was past 4 pm. By then, the group had already covered a minimum of 21 kilometres. One woman fell asleep near the river. It was at this moment that an elephant approached the water source. The rest of the group fled in one direction deserting the woman. The elephant, noticing the sleeping woman, initially attacked with its head; striking a branch just above where she was resting. The second attack occurred when she woke up and attempted to escape. The elephant claimed her life, and started chasing after the rest of the group, who managed to run away. K. Sujith, a member of the group of pilgrims from Batticaloa, related this incident to us. “We cannot bathe on our way because of crocodiles and cannot go out because of snakes. We have been walking for 7 days. The journey is hard but it is still a beautiful experience. I came with my friends,” Sujith added.

Fulfilling promises

Many people from diverse backgrounds join the Kataragama Pada Yatra. In addition to the general public, professionals such as engineers, teachers, clerks and accountants also participate. These people join the pilgrimage to fulfil their wishes to the God on behalf of themselves or someone else. 

M.A Raghavan, a teacher from Ampara, initially embarked on the Pada Yatra to fulfill his commitment to God Kataragama on behalf of a family member’s illness. Raghavan now joins the Pada Yatra almost every year. “Our entire family participates in this Pada Yatra annually, approaching it with great care and deliberation. We undertake a six-day journey, stopping at the Kale Ganapati Devalaya before reaching Kataragama,” shared Raghavan. A civil engineer and a doctor from Trincomalee took part in the Pada Yatra to fulfill their wishes to God, and they spoke to this writer on terms of anonymity. The doctor explained “We embarked on this journey to save the life of a severely ill child. The task of saving that child’s life is challenging and now we place our trust solely in God. For seven days, we have been cooking and eating while participating in this pilgrimage,” the doctor said. The civil engineer added, “I am a retired civil engineer. Due to the illness of a close relative’s child, I made a promise to God Kataragama. I am here to fulfill that promise.”

Surendra Kumar has been participating in the Pada Yatra for the past six days. He said that he had encountered obstacles from elephants while travelling along the way from Ampara area. “While on our journey we received food from Army camps. We also brought vegetables and rice. We got food inside the Yala Sanctuary. I was accompanied by some friends who were also part of the Pada Yatra. I participate in the Pada Yatra every year to fulfill my promises to the God. Some of my friends have been participating in the Pada Yatra since childhood,” said Kumar. 

R.S Dhanalakshmi, from Batticaloa, joined the Pada Yatra. She brings her young children with her to Kataragama every year, to fulfill her promise to God, who helped cure her child’s illness. She has spent seven days in the Pada Yatra to worship the deity. “This time, it was a bit challenging for us. We carried one child and had the other hanging on. Due to fatigue, we didn’t cook food. We survived on rice flakes and coconut for three days. One day, we were hungry and ate Weera and Palu. However, we are used to such difficulties. Despite challenges, we participate in the Pada Yatra every year to worship God of Kataragama because he healed our child,” said Dhanalakshmi. 

Divine sustenance

The Daily Mirror observed that some local and provincial politicians from the Ampara district had also joined the Pada Yatra this time. People from all walks of life get together at the Kale Ganapati Devalaya as they approach Kataragama. These individuals, exhausted after covering long distances for several days, arrive near the Kale Ganapati Devalaya. The food and water they receive there are like divine sustenance. Some individuals do not even have plates to eat and some eat their food placed in shopping bags or buckets. The Pada Yatra serves as a great example of the universal experience of hunger, regardless of one’s social standing. These pilgrims undertake the journey with burning hunger in their stomachs; making it a profound blessing if they can be given a meal.

Ranjith Gamage, who has been organising alms and providing three meals to pilgrims for the past 12 years at the Kale Ganapati Temple, shared his thoughts on the Pada Yatra. “Fifteen years ago, when I first came here, I witnessed the intense hunger experienced by the people. Individuals from different religions and backgrounds take part in the Pada Yatra and you can see all of them affected by hunger. It was during that time that I realized the significance of providing nourishment to those who are starving during their journey on foot. Since then, I have been organising these rounds of alms for 12 years; ensuring that every pilgrim is fed. It would be a tremendous blessing if the meals provided for fun in Colombo could be given to these individuals. The alms given here is truly a compassionate act of feeding the hungry,” said Gamage.