DOM FERNADO, FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR, PARADISE SOHO

Dom Fernando, the visionary Founder of Paradise Soho, is transforming Sri Lankan cuisine in London. With a deep passion for his heritage, Dom left a corporate career in business and accounting to follow his culinary dreams. His innovative approach blends traditional Sri Lankan dishes with modern techniques, offering a fresh perspective on the island’s flavours. Since its 2019 debut, Paradise Soho has earned acclaim, including a Michelin Bib Gourmand, and has become a staple in London's dining scene. Dom’s commitment to authenticity and creativity shines through every dish, with his ongoing mission to celebrate and elevate Sri Lankan cuisine. I had the pleasure of meeting Dom a few weeks ago through a mutual friend, Rozobelle Fernando, who was visiting London from Shanghai, for her summer holiday. From our first conversation, I was struck by Dom’s infectious enthusiasm and unwavering commitment to promoting Sri Lanka and its culinary traditions in the UK. His passion was evident as he shared his journey from a corporate career to becoming the visionary behind Paradise Soho, a restaurant that has truly redefined Sri Lankan cuisine in London. Listening to his story, his vision for introducing Sri Lankan flavours to a broader audience, his commitment to authenticity, and his innovative approach to modernizing traditional dishes, left a profound impression on me. I knew immediately that this was a story that deserved to be shared with our readers in Sri Lanka, to not only highlight the success of a fellow Sri Lankan abroad but also to celebrate the unique ways our culture is being embraced and cherished on an international stage.

Dom, please share with us a summary of your personal journey.

I was born to Sri Lankan, Sinhalese parents who moved to the UK in the mid-1970s. I studied Business & Accounting at Edinburgh University and initially followed in my father’s footsteps by joining an accountancy firm in London. After working in-house at PwC for a few years, I decided to explore a different path and spent over ten years with InterContinental Hotels Group, working in London, Dubai, and Singapore.

Please share with us a summary of your entrepreneurial journey.

After living abroad for ten years, I returned to England in 2017 and decided to pursue my dream of opening a restaurant. Initially, I never considered focusing on Sri Lankan cuisine, as I thought it was too traditional and not exciting enough. However, inspired by what establishments like Hoppers London were doing, I wanted to innovate Sri Lankan food while preserving its authenticity. To gain insight into the restaurant business, I started hosting supper clubs while still working full-time. In March 2019, we found the perfect location, and six months later, we opened Paradise Soho.

What inspired you to launch Paradise Soho?

With a wealth of international experience and exposure, I decided to open Paradise in 2019. My inspiration came from the school holidays I spent in Sri Lanka, visiting family. Mealtimes were the highlight of each day, and I loved the lively atmosphere of the bustling kitchens. I would listen closely to the conversations about which spices to use and the friendly debates over who made the best mutton curry. My grandmother was always the unanimous choice for the most delicious dishes, her cooking was unmatched, especially her dhal. Her influence has been a guiding force in my life, and her flavours are infused throughout the dishes at Paradise.

Paradise Soho has received significant acclaim since it opened. What do you believe are the key factors behind its success?

We’re very fortunate to have received national recognition in the UK press and a Bib Gourmand from Michelin, which we’ve held since 2021. However, the key factors behind our success are truly hard work and dedication. We are constantly striving to evolve and improve what we do and how we do it, while remaining true to the Sri Lankan spirit of being an underdog. Another important factor is immersing our team in Sri Lankan culture; we regularly bring our team from London to Sri Lanka to help them better understand the culture and deliver an exceptional guest experience.

What is your approach to sourcing ingredients for Paradise Soho, especially those unique to Sri Lankan cuisine?

Sourcing ingredients is a fundamental aspect of our brand and cooking at Paradise Soho. I am deeply committed to ensuring a sustainable supply chain, a passion I inherited from my father, who encouraged local farmers in southern Sri Lanka to grow their own crops and become self-sustainable. We source ingredients like green chili, ginger, aubergine, and various fruits from local farmers in Sri Lanka and ship them to England weekly. We collaborate with Chanchala Gunewardene from Kimbula Kithul to source kithul (treacle) from sustainable suppliers, and our jaggery comes from the rainforest regions. Additionally, we grow our own cinnamon near Hikkaduwa in the south and have recently started sourcing vanilla from the Kandy region. These practices ensure the authenticity and unique taste of our food.  With the opening of Open Door Policy at the end of the year, we plan to invest further in the farming infrastructure to grow as many ingredients as possible within Sri Lanka.

Can you tell us about any memorable moments or milestones since Paradise Soho opened?

We’ve experienced some truly exciting milestones over the past five years! In January 2019, we received three national reviews in quick succession, which was a fantastic boost.

Then, in 2021, we were honoured with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, a recognition that took us by surprise. That same year, we also made it into the Top 100 UK restaurants. More recently, we’ve been working on repositioning and redesigning the brand for the next five years. This new direction will further emphasize modern Sri Lankan cuisine, design, and hospitality, and I’m thrilled to see how it all unfolds!

How has the London dining scene reacted to Paradise Soho, and what feedback have you received from patrons?

The reaction from the London dining scene has been very positive. Our unique approach to Sri Lankan cuisine offers something different and exciting, which is what many diners are looking for these days. Since our reopening in May with the new Paradise [2.0] concept, we’ve been fortunate to receive excellent reviews. Our repeat guests, who are our most discerning critics, have been particularly appreciative of the changes and enhancements we've made.

What role does the interior design and ambiance of Paradise Soho play in the overall dining experience?

The interior design and ambiance of Paradise Soho are integral to our dining experience and brand identity. Success in hospitality relies on three key elements: design and ambiance, ingredient quality, and emotional guest connections. Our design, inspired by a Colombo villa through Geoffrey Bawa's lens, has earned acclaim, including a spot on the Dezeen longlist awards. Paradise [2.0] features tropical design elements and thoughtful touches like cutlery drawers built into the tables, surprising and delighting guests. The ambiance is enhanced by a curated playlist that adapts throughout the day, creating an authentic Sri Lankan atmosphere in the heart of Soho. Design features like shadow-casting lighting and concrete walls evoke the feel of a Sri Lankan villa, while books by Sri Lankan authors and references to our cuisine and design foster a residential vibe. This thoughtful approach ensures a deep, immersive connection with our guests.

What are some of the most popular dishes at Paradise Soho, and why do you think they resonate so well with diners?

Since transitioning to a tasting-style menu, all our dishes have become favourites among our guests. Recently, our raw beef roll tartare has been particularly popular; it’s a creative take on a Sri Lankan-Indo-Chinese fried roll. Another standout is our wattalappam, which features a savoury twist with crab from the south coast of England. Lastly, our Alphonso mango mini-magnum dessert has also been a hit, it’s a nostalgic nod to our supper club days before we opened the restaurant. These dishes resonate with diners because they offer a unique fusion of traditional flavours with innovative twists, reflecting both our culinary heritage and modern approach.

Why do you think Sri Lankan cuisine is becoming increasingly popular in London?

Sri Lankan cuisine is gaining popularity in London due to its bold, balanced flavours that offer a fresh alternative to familiar Indian and Thai options. Many dishes are naturally gluten-free and packed with fresh vegetables, aligning with current health trends. The rise of authentic Sri Lankan restaurants, presented in contemporary settings, has introduced Londoners to this rich culinary heritage. The growing Sri Lankan community and London’s adventurous food scene have further boosted exposure.

Additionally, chefs are blending Sri Lankan flavours with British and global cuisines, making the food more accessible and appealing to a broader audience.

In your opinion, how does Sri Lankan cuisine stand out compared to other South-Asian cuisines available in London?

Sri Lankan cuisine stands out in London due to its unique use of coconut in various forms; milk, grated coconut, and oil, which imparts a rich, creamy texture distinct from the dairy-heavy profiles of other South Asian cuisines. Its flavour profile includes a complex blend of spices like roasted curry powders, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and pandan leaves, alongside tangy ingredients such as dried fish, tamarind, and lime juice. Iconic dishes like hoppers and string hoppers, along with diverse sambols, add unique freshness and spice. Influences from Portuguese, Dutch, and Malay cuisines further enrich Sri Lankan dishes, creating a vibrant and distinctive culinary experience.

Have you noticed any specific trends or shifts in how Londoners are embracing Sri Lankan cuisine?

Londoners are increasingly embracing Sri Lankan cuisine, evident in several trends. The rise of Sri Lankan Street food stalls and trucks has made dishes like kottu roti and hoppers more accessible at markets and festivals. Fusion cuisine is also gaining popularity, blending traditional Sri Lankan flavours with modern techniques, appealing to adventurous diners. Initially enjoyed mainly within the Sri Lankan community, the cuisine now reaches a broader audience, with new restaurants appearing in various neighbourhoods. Social media plays a key role, with Instagram-worthy dishes like hoppers and sambols driving curiosity and interest, boosting the cuisine's visibility and integration into London’s diverse food scene.

How important is it to you to educate your customers about Sri Lankan culture and culinary traditions?

Educating our customers about Sri Lankan culture and culinary traditions is one of our main priorities, especially with the relaunch of Paradise [2.0]. We aim to share the origins of our spices and dishes and evoke nostalgic moments that connect us to our roots.

We also encourage guests to embrace aspects of our dining culture, like eating with their fingers, just as we do back home. At the same time, we want to highlight what modern Sri Lanka is and can be. When guests leave Paradise Soho, we hope they are inspired to learn more about our culture and perhaps even consider booking a trip to Sri Lanka for their next holiday!

Can you give us an overview of your new venture, ‘Open Door Policy,’ and what makes it unique?

Open Door Policy (ODP) is an exciting new venture located in the vibrant neighbourhood of Colombo 3, amidst the high rises of Sri Lanka’s capital. Spanning two storeys, ODP offers a dining experience that truly celebrates modern Sri Lankan cuisine. What sets it apart is the full interaction between guests and chefs, providing a unique kitchen theatre experience that has not been seen before. As soon as guests enter through the ‘open door’ of the ground-floor restaurant in Colpetty, they embark on a culinary journey through the nivasa (house). The centrepiece of the experience is an intimate horseshoe-shaped counter where our culinary team prepares, serves, and guides diners through each course of the evening’s tasting menu. This setup allows for a personal, engaging experience, where guests can learn about the dishes and the inspirations behind them directly from the chefs.

What inspired you to open ‘Open Door Policy’ in Colombo, and what do you hope to achieve with this new restaurant?

I was inspired to launch Open Door Policy to showcase progressive Sri Lankan cooking and move beyond the traditional perception of our cuisine as just ‘rice and curry.’ At ODP, we’ll experiment with unfamiliar flavours and unique cooking techniques using hyper-seasonal ingredients. My hope is that this restaurant will set a new standard for dining experiences in Sri Lanka and inspire other chefs to join us in evolving and developing the country’s culinary scene. We aim to push the boundaries of what Sri Lankan cuisine can be and highlight its potential on both a local and global stage.

How will ‘Open Door Policy’ differ from Paradise Soho in terms of concept and dining experience?

Open Door Policy and Paradise Soho offer distinct dining experiences despite sharing a commitment to modern Sri Lankan cuisine. Open Door Policy will feature an immersive, interactive setup with a horseshoe-shaped counter where guests engage directly with chefs, enhancing the culinary experience. In contrast, Paradise Soho presents a refined, vibrant interpretation of Sri Lankan dishes, focusing on innovative takes on traditional flavour’s. Both aim to redefine Sri Lankan cuisine, but with different approaches to guest engagement and presentation.

Where do you see yourself ten years from now?

To be honest, I don't have a specific ten-year plan. So many changes from day to day, and I prefer to live in the moment rather than focusing too far ahead. If I'm healthy and happy, I'll consider that a great place to be.

Who do you look up to for inspiration?

I find inspiration in many different sources, not just one person. However, if I were to narrow it down, I would say that I admire several notable chefs in the UK who have pushed the boundaries of their cultural cuisines over the past decade. Chefs like A. Wong, Ayo Adeyemi from Akoko, Jeremy Chan from Ikoyi, and Simon Rogan have all been particularly inspiring to me.