East Meets West: South Asian Designers at NYFW 2024

Prabul Gurung NYFW 2024

New York Fashion Week has long been a melting pot of global talent, and this year was no different. Among the standout designers were South Asian talents who brought a unique blend of cultural heritage and contemporary fashion to the runway. Designers like Bibhu Mohapatra and Prabal Gurung not only showcased their artistic prowess but also celebrated their roots while pushing the boundaries of fashion. Let’s take a closer look at how these designers left an indelible mark on the SS25 collections.

Bibhu Mohapatra: A Sensory Journey Inspired by Patti Smith

New York-based fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra is known for his mastery of Western formal wear, seamlessly merging classic silhouettes with modern, edgy twists. His SS25 collection took on a personal touch, as it was inspired by the iconic Patti Smith. Mohapatra shared with JT Fashion Week that his collection reflects “Patti’s maverick spirit, iconic NYC roots, and her wildly creative journey of six decades.” The result? A collection that felt like a sensory journey, intertwining emotions, memories, and stories through delicate fabrics and bold silhouettes. Mohapatra’s use of soft, flowing materials contrasted with sharp, structured designs, creating a beautiful juxtaposition that evoked both nostalgia and innovation. A significant part of his collection’s success was his collaboration with two unique brands. First, his partnership with Nini Jewels brought an added layer of luxury, as the outfits were paired with vibrant gemstones and coloured diamonds, adding sparkle and sophistication. Mohapatra also teamed up with Pantone, unveiling their new Dualities colour palette in tandem with his collection.

This palette, designed to reflect the multifaceted nature of human experiences, harmonised beautifully with the delicate yet bold aesthetic of his SS25 designs. Incorporating these elements into his collection elevated it to a sensory experience that spoke not just to fashion but to a deeper emotional narrative, making Mohapatra’s SS25 a memorable collection this season.

Prabal Gurung: Optimism, Hope, and the Spirit of Holi

Nepalese-born New York designer Prabal Gurung is known for his bold political and social statements in fashion, and his SS25 collection was no exception. Rooted in optimism and hope, Gurung’s collection celebrated femininity and his South Asian heritage in a way that felt both modern and timeless. In a conversation with WWD, Gurung revealed that he drew inspiration from the celebration of Holi, the vibrant festival of colours, and the idea of feminine leadership. This inspiration translated into flowing, feminine silhouettes, and a joyful palette of bright, exuberant colours. Gurung’s show culminated in a grand finale, where models, dressed in pristine white ensembles, had pink powder thrown on them, a visual homage to Holi’s tradition of colour play. The bold finale wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was a celebration of joy, renewal, and cultural pride, all the while keeping a sharp focus on feminine strength and beauty.

The juxtaposition of soft, feminine shapes with bright, intense colours created a powerful message of resilience and joy. This collection is a testament to how fashion can be both an artistic expression and a reflection of personal heritage.

Both Bibhu Mohapatra and Prabal Gurung have proven once again that fashion can be deeply personal, while also globally resonant. By infusing their cultural backgrounds and personal experiences into their designs, they’ve carved out a space for South Asian voices in the global fashion narrative. South Asian designers at New York Fashion Week continue to inspire with their bold creativity, bridging tradition with modernity. Their work challenges conventional notions of fashion and celebrates diversity, making the fashion landscape richer and more inclusive. Whether through Mohapatra’s emotional sensory journey or Gurung’s vibrant celebration of Holi, these designers remind us that fashion isn’t just about clothes, it’s about storytelling, cultural pride, and pushing the boundaries of what style can represent.